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I agree with you quality products mater

I have seen at least 3 leaks at or below the shower drain flange…

Please share recommendations for best suppliers, product brand, etc.

My sister has tile like this with the same issue. Grout has even come out of the lines. She thought it was an installation problem but I thought it was the tile.

Very well and simple explained .

I have a concrete slab foundation and the shower drain seems to smell. I wonder how I can confirm if there is a P trap down there? For your case, how do you confirm there is a P trap?

A 30 dollar boroscope could save replacing a perfectly good P trap. jUST LOGIC

You mention not digging down to add a P trap. Is there a P trap below the existing drain? If its not there wont this allow sewer gases to cup up through the drain?

How do you waterproof around the r22000 rough in valve?

2 years ago I removed all the tile and backboard from the kitchen where most every tile indication had cracked and separated and was falling apart the Baker board had been glued and screwed and it took me 3 days to prep the floor for the new backaboard and tile. After removing what came up the had been glued I promise you I did not glue mine back down and to this day it's still in perfect condition we shall see. No I'm not Einstein but in my mind the backboard not only adds stability but it also acts as kind of a uncoupling membrane Furthermore you've got 30 to 40 screws in Each sheet Didn't unless the screws are made out of some dissolving material most likely those chicks are back aboard aren't going to shift or separate from the sub floor Any time in my lifetime. They put this in their specs to cover their asses for the one in a million chance that something happens that glueing and screwing might possibly have Prevented. It doesn't cost the manufacturer one more red scent to add one more Requirement on their spec sheet.. But it does however give them one more reason to not provide a warranty and every manufacturer does it. I said all that to say is I know for a fact that that step in one instance did not prevent The failure of a whole kitchen floor But I do know that I've never glued mine down and never had a call back.

Thank you for posting.

I appreciate Bob's time and effort to make these videos, and also his skill in the trade, but I can see why his method confuses a lot of people. He uses a pan liner even though the topical membrane makes the liner superfluous, and he uses a weep hole-style drain that would be suitable for a water-in, water-out system, even though he's not building that type of system. I'm sure his showers don't fail because he is tying the components together with care, but it still doesn't make a whole lot of sense to do it this way. That's why he's always fielding nasty comments about not knowing what he's doing.

What if the curb is made of concrete?

Could barely hear you over the music, couldn't finish watching the video

Anyone buying Supplies from Home Depot should be the first RED FLAG.

Good to know! Thank you sir!

Do your weep holes get blocked by not cutting the entire drain circle out? I used the X method like you showed, but after my leak test the water wouldn't drain completely, and slightly pooled at the edge of the flange. After I cut the entire circle out, the inside of the drain was clearly visible through the weep holes, then the water was able to leak out completely through the weep hole tunnels. I was comfortable cutting the entire drain circle out, because (in the event of a blockage) it made sense that the silicone bead would prevent the water from going any further under the liner. Thoughts? Anyone?

Not very good couldn’t see the plumbing connection to the existing one

Very informative, thanks for posting.

Ty it was down there but it was there

Why would u put music in the background…. Bigger question is you reviewed this and put it up with music anyway… you probably dont speed up to get on the highway too

How do you fix the mosaic glue problem?

Does the mortar adhere to the rubber underlayment like glue after it dries? Or after the mortar dries and shrinks a little, would it be possible for some space or gaps to occur which then the pre slope would always be aiming that residual water back into the drain?

I've been wondering when you water proof the drain with liquid water proofer, red guard aqua defense. Wouldn't the water site right at drain between drain housing and water proofer? Since it cant drain thru the water proofer and sits below tile at drain? Would this be an issue. That's the phase I'm currently at. Water proofing the slurry. I already got the shower pan liner, than slurry and now water proofing. Thanks for videos.

I removed the old 1983 tub and the drain pipe doesn’t have a ptrap slab florida house I never experienced gas sewer smell coming from bathroom could the ptrap be under the slab somewhere

I removed the old 1983 tub and the drain pipe doesn’t have a ptrap slab florida house I never experienced gas sewer smell coming from bathroom could the ptrap be under the slab somewhere

It seems you're getting better and better with every video. You constantly teach and give insight into material and processes... It never seems to get old . Had a couple of comments/question, but I'll ask later. When is your next "Live" broadcast

After 30 plus years that’s pretty good. I was there during the building process of my uncles house and he’d be lucky to get 10 years. They didn’t use the red rubber waterproofing membrane. They just used mildew proof drywall

Better quality wood in the 1950s

Its ALWAYS the guy with the exotic car in the driveway who’s going to whine about everything. But he wants the cheapest price.

Awesome video very interesting point where you talk about leaving that gap between your cement board and morter bed

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Ever try using a thermal camera? We use is as "x-ray" vision to see where the leaks are.

Omg! Less commentary and winning! Just show how to do the job.

Donate or don’t call me. lol okay yeah I’ll unsubscribe now.

what are the integrated nuts called, seems easier then dealing with washers

Come on, get to it, already.

A heated shower floor under that marble would keep the porous marble dry and prevent water staining

Can't wait to see the next video. What would be the best low maintenance tile to get for a shower floor that has proper waterproofing and slope?

You know what’s funny. I watched all your videos and they helped me build my shower when I lived in Maryland. After I built the shower my company moved me to Atlanta now and I’m building another shower 😂. Great video.

To get some Stain Proof click this link ....amzn.to/4ejd1iz

This bathroom looks amazing!!

following this technique how and with what do you fill in the gap between the lip and the waterproof drywall

I wanna see it get ripped up so we can see what the issue was.

I've been studying all you guys for several years; you, Diblasi, Ostrum, and others. I base my common sense off of the calculations of all of your condensed wisdom. I choose to do a preslope. I don't seal the final pan top until after I've done the water test to ensure the membrane is working properly.(when you do your water test, you're gonna saturate your pan no matter what. The water is going to seep up through your drain barrel threads and weeps holes.) So after the membrane test passes, and I let it dry out for a couple days, that's when I will liquid membrane the top to seal it for the tile setting. Sure, a drain can back up and still flood your drypack,but generally speaking, all water should egress out and not backup past the p-trap. This is the process I've come to use as my ritual. I appreciate all the videos all of you make for teaching us what does and doesn't work. Keep the Info flowing!

I can't believe how easy this really was!! My bathroom sink drain started leaking a bit and I don't have a lot of money, so fixing it myself was one of my only options. Once I had the right parts...I had it fixed in less than 5 minutes and even getting the wrong parts, it still only cost about $20...still much cheaper than the $150-$200 you mentioned...maybe even more now considering how many years ago this was. I opted to just replace all the parts instead of just the flange, just in case. Why do the job more than once when PVC is cheap enough to just replace right then and there?

O Ring fixed it Hi - My PTrap was leaking, I took is apart and found some damage on the tapered seal under the horizontal nut. I put an Oring in the grove and tightened it. Vola no leaks!

What the hell ?? Oatey clearly shows it to be in the pan mortar bed. Why do they show that if it’s not proper ??

Sorry this isn’t related to pan liners but I was hoping to get your recommendation on ceramic tile sealer. One that hopefully doesn’t change the color of my grout. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you!

Thanks!! Same mirror I have. Will be trying this this weekend!!